DIY Guide: How to Replace a Purge Valve in Your Vehicle
A malfunctioning purge valve may bring on your check engine light or cause rough idle and may even lower the efficiency of your fuel. Although this may seem like something you should leave to your mechanic, repairing the purge valve is one of the easiest DIY fixes you can do at home in your garage.
In this step-bystep guide we'll guide you through finding the, testing, and replacing the purge valve in your vehicle. To gain a better understanding of the function of this part take a look at our comprehensive description of what's purge valves and how it works.
Tools You'll Need
Before you begin start, you should gather these tools:
OBD-II scanner (to check/clear trouble codes)
Multimeter (for electrical testing)
Standard socket set (usually 8mm-12mm sockets)
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Pliers (for hose clamps)
Purge valve for new model (make sure that it's compatible with your car)
Step 1: Locate the Purge Valve
The purge valve can be located in one of the following places:
In the vicinity of the engine compartment (often placed on the intake or firewall)
Near the canister of charcoal (usually beneath the vehicle, near where the tank of fuel is)
Pro Tips: Consult your vehicle's service manual or search for an online diagram for precise location.
Step 2: Test the Old Purge Valve
Before replacing it, make sure that the valve isn't defective.
Method 1: Electrical Test
Connect the electrical plug.
Set your multimeter in the ohms (O) mode.
Verify the for resistance at the terminals of your valve (should not exceed 20-30 Ohms).
When the value is zero (short) or infinity (open), the valve is defective.
Method 2: Vacuum Test
Detach the purge valve from its place of mounting.
Blower through the valve. It will only allow airflow if powered by 12V.
If air is flowing free (stuck wide) or is not flowing in any way (stuck closed) the air needs to be replaced.
For more troubleshooting advice check out the Purge Valve Diagnostic Guide.
Step 3: Remove the Old Purge Valve
Remove the battery's negative terminal (safety first! ).
Remove your electronic connector from the valve.
Use pliers to release all hose clamps and disconnect from the lines of vacuum.
Get rid of your mounting bolt(s) that hold the valve in the position.
Notice: Some valves are installed with no tools required for installation, just a strong pull.
Step 4: Install the New Purge Valve
Install the valve into the correct position.
Connect the vacuum the hoses ( make sure they're securely attached to stop leaks).
Connect the electrical plug.
Clip or bolt the valve back to its original position.
Essential Check: Ensure all connections are secure. A loose hose could result in EVAP leaks, which can trigger Check Engine Light once more.
Step 5: Clear Trouble Codes & Test Drive
Connect the battery.
Make use of the OBD-II scan to remove any trouble codes that are stored.
Start the engine, and let it idle. Listen for a smooth operation.
Try a test drive to ensure that no engine check light is coming back.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Inadvertently disconnecting from the battery (risk of electrical shorts)
Reversing vacuum hose connections (check markings or diagrams)
Trouble codes not being cleared (the light could stay in place even after repairs)
When to Call a Mechanic
While this is an easy repair, it is recommended to seek out professional assistance when:
It's impossible to locate the purge valve.
This check engine warning light is back after replacing the light
You are concerned about that there are additional EVAP system leaks
Final Thoughts
Removing the purge valve is an easy, affordable solution which can improve the engine's performance and efficiency. With the right tools and this tutorial you can complete the task in just one hour.
Have you found this article helpful? Let us know in the comments! If you're looking for more tips on auto repair take a look at our complete guide regarding how purge valves function.
Labels: car, purge valve, repair, vihicles
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